MY PUFFY PUFF BACK JACKET // QUILTED
Inspiration//
My third version of The Puff Back Jacket is inspired by a quilted liner for a jacket. I managed to find a double sided black nylon to fit the brief and wanted to mimic the details of a traditional lining. Ive included a couple of images of the particular jacket I wanted to replicate, while staying as true to this pattern as possible.
Finishings for this version //
I overlocked internal edges first to prepare the pieces (not the gathered section on the back though) and bound all outer edges, continuously at the corners too(outer edges don’t need to be overlocked when they’re using binding). There’s no front facing or hem facing so the fabric was cut at the fold lines for each edge (no additional hem or seam allowance needed when having a visible binding as the finish) so a raw or nett edge, also didn’t include the cuff facing.
When sewing with thick or quilted fabrics topstitching is your bestest friend- no pressing with an iron for this fabric, and its basically unresponsive to ironing with calico on top so all seam allowances are top stitched on both sides of the seams (this is also why all internal seams need to be overlocked first)
The collar and welts were, as expected, thick and bouncy once they were bagged out so the top stitching I added is just over a machine foots width from the edge. I managed to do this neatly and I like the detail of a squared off boarder on the welt. I managed a millimetre from the edge of the welt to secure to the jacket.
The buttonhole edge needed a bit of re-enforcement so I mounted a piece of gross grain I had lying around. It’s a really nice quality and probably accidentally made its way home with me from a freelance job, oops. It was the perfect width for the button hole size and length to cover the button hole sections. You can see it’s not the full length of the front edge but it worked out perfectly and I like that it’s slightly shorter.
Didn’t have 4 matching buttons, but a nice alternative feature top button works well doesn’t it.
I didn’t need to line this version so on the inside I chain stitched the pockets down at the top and bottom points, with about 2-3cm length of chain so they have a little freedom to move. I also hand tacked the straight edge of the pocket down so it doesn’t flap and curl, this fabric is so thick it needs to be controlled everywhere.
I just about managed to match the quilting pattern along my Center back seams. It’s not perfect, but with the gathered volume you’re not going to see it.
I made this in the size lower than the usual size I would wear because I didn’t want it to be super huge, it fits well because of the slightly oversized nature of this pattern but I am regretting that now and wish it was bigger like the inspiration images above, always the way.
I normally reduce my sleeves by 2-3cm but because I made the smaller size I didn’t reduce the length at all.
We may be going into summer, but its been such a cold Spring I’ve already got so much wear out of it.
My other version that I haven’t finished but have been wearing just needs a lining to be inserted so I will document this soon…